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Costumes & Textile Collection: 'Revolutionary' Clothing
This gallery highlights
three garments worn during the American Revolution but
not all are uniforms! One belonged to a woman, two are
connected with particular incidents, and all three have
fascinating histories associated with their owners.
Tory Officer's Coat, 1770s
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Monson Hoyt, a
native of Norwalk, Connecticut, wore this "redcoat"
during the American Revolution. A Tory and Crown
officer, he was a lieutenant in the Prince of
Wales's American Volunteers from 1777 to 1783. Tory
uniforms like this are extremely rare because
many loyalists fled to Canada after the war, and
often their possessions were confiscated. (Hoyt
went to New Brunswick, but is believed to have
been a resident of New York State at the time of
his death, about 1805.) Unlike today's military
garb, which camouflages the wearer, 18th century
officers' uniforms were eye-catching: richly
colored textiles, ornamented with gleaming metal
embroidery and buttons denoted status and rank.
Made of high quality wool broadcloth, so tightly
woven that the hem was simply cut rather than
turned under and stitched, this coat sustained
moth damage years ago. However, some of the
resulting fabric loss allows us to study the
construction techniques. For example, the
metal thread embroidery
was worked with small pieces of
linen sandwiched between the layers of wool to
give it firm support. CHS also owns an
embroidered red wool waistcoat that belonged to
Monson Hoyt.
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Hooded Cloak, ca. 1760-1775
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Twenty-two-year-old
Deborah Champion wore this scarlet cloak in
September of 1775 when her father sent her to
Boston on a mission to deliver papers to General
Washington. She was accompanied by the family's
slave, Aristarchus, on the horseback journey from
New London, Connecticut, crossing enemy lines in
Massachusetts. Deborah wrote of the episode to a
friend, including in her letter descriptions
of the clothing she wore. She hid the papers
under the bodice of her linsey-woolsey dress, and
fastened her neckerchief over the bodice. She
described the wool fabric of this cloak as "camlet,"
and said that her mother insisted on her also
wearing a "close" (snugly-fitting) silk
hood, and that she take with her a calash.
Deborah was not keen on taking the calash, an
over-sized, collapsible bonnet designed to cover
the head without crushing the wearer's cap or
coiffure, but she conceded that her mother's
advice was wise. When approached by a soldier
wearing a redcoat she pulled the calash up, and
with her face thus well-hidden, the British
soldier let her pass, remarking that she was
"only an old woman."
Red wool cloaks
were popular for both men and women in the latter
half of the 18th century, and because they were
treasured items and could fit a variety of
figures, many were passed down from one
generation to the next. The wool used to make
this cloak is much coarser than that of the Tory
officer's redcoat, and was probably made in
Connecticut, not imported from Europe. Whether
imported or made at home, textiles were valuable,
so nothing was wasted in making a garment; you
can see lines across the front of the cloak where
the fabric was pieced, and like the redcoat, the
hem is simply cut, not turned under and stitched.
The fur-like trim is a shag-faced fabric. CHS
also owns a dressing table, aa cup and saucer
that had belonged to Deborah, and a portrait,
correspondence, and other items from her father,
General Henry Champion.
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Waistcoat, ca. 1781
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Colonel William Ledyard was wearing this linen
waistcoat on September 6, 1781, when he was killed
with his own sword by a British officer after his
surrender at the storming of Fort Griswold,
Connecticut. This incident and the massacre of
soldiers that followed was noted as one of the
most outrageous events of the American Revolution.
Although Benedict Arnold was not present at Fort
Griswold, his name is associated with the
incident since it was he who dispatched an
officer from the just-captured neighboring town
of New London to take the fort.
The fabric of
Ledyard's waistcoat is a finely woven,
alternately plain- and satin-striped linen; the
natural variation in coloring of the flax seen
throughout the fabric. The holes caused by the
sword are evident; one shoulder was cut to remove
the garment from the body. Ledyard's shirt and
other items from the family are also in the CHS
Collections, and several of his letters are
in the CHS Library's manuscript collection.
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Photo Credit: David Stansbury
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